Tag Archives: Hand Spun

Meiji Era Benibana Dyed Katazome

October 12, 2016Cotton, Textiles19th century, Antique, benibana, Cotton, Hand Spun, Hand Woven, Japan, Japanese, Katazome, meiji, momen, red, safflower, textiles, vintageNathan S

The two pieces of mid 19th century hand spun and hand woven cotton shown above are dyed using benibana or safflower. This flower in the thistle family is used to dye cotton and silk a range of colors from light pink to deep red. As benibana dyed fabrics age they begin to turn a more brown or rust color like the pieces in this post.

both of the fabrics shown here has been pattered using a katagami, or paper stencil used to apply rice paste to the fabric as a resist before dying. These stencil dyed fabrics are known as katazome.

Kami-Ito, Paper Thread Making

April 19, 2016Bast fibers, Fiber, My Work, Thread and YarnHand Spun, kami ito, kozo, paper, shifu, threadNathan S

Newly spun kami-ito, paper thread, on homemade bamboo bobbins. I made this paper thread from beautiful hand made kozo paper from Korea. I first cut the kozo paper into thin strips leaving both ends attached, then left the paper strips under a damp towel overnight, in the morning I rolled the moist paper on concrete blocks, and then spun the thread using a Japanese spinning wheel. This thread still needs to be boiled or steamed to set the twist. This is my first real attempt at making paper thread.

Vintage Japanese Hand Spliced Hemp Thread

March 28, 2016Bast fibers, Thread and Yarn, Uncategorizedbast, Hand Spliced, Hand Spun, Hemp, Japan, Japanese, thread, vintageNathan S

When this thread arrived from Japan there were small bits of newspaper from the 40’s or 50’s clinging to some of the threads. I assume they were packed away in a weavers workshop for many years. Everything about this thread makes me contemplate the extreme skill needed to produce such consistent and strong thread. The hemp was harvested, steamed, dried, boiled, the fibers were then separated and hand spliced. In the second photo you can see the joins where the spicing was done. After splicing a final twist was added using a spinning wheel. I have several hanks of this thread and I think I will use it for the warp of an upcoming project.

Vibrant Green and Indigo Tsutsugaki

March 28, 2016Cotton, Textiles, UncategorizedAntique, Cotton, green, Hand Spun, Hand Woven, Indigo, Japan, Japanese, kamon, meiji, momen, thread, tsutsugakiNathan S

I recently found this beautiful 19th century indigo dyed fabric that was more than likely used as a furniture cover. These were traditionally made for a wedding and often display the brides family crest. The hand spun cotton thread lends texture to the fabric. The design was worked using a rice paste resist and a method known as tsutsugaki. The light blue of the family crest is known as kame nozoki, or peeking in the vat. The fabric was first dyed with a yellow dye and later over dyed with indigo to create the beautiful green color. In the close up photos you can see the yellow dye that seeped under the resist paste. The last photo shows one of the corners where the yellow dye is also visible. I would guess that the yellow was obtained from gardenia seed pods.

Reading About Kami-Ito and Shifu

March 28, 2016Bast fibers, Fiber, My Work, Textiles, Thread and YarnAntique, daifukucho, Hand Spun, Hand Woven, Japan, Japanese, kami ito, kozo, paper, shifu, threadNathan S

I recently found these two wonderful books on shifu, paper thread making and paper thread weaving. The first book Kigami and Kami-ito is beautifully laid out and the images are inspiring. A Song Of Praise For Shifu is exceptionally full of information about paper making, as well as, the regional variations and history of shifu.

I have been collecting antique daifukucho, or account books. Some of these daifukucho date to the 1840’s and were used by a lumber company, but most of them date to the 1880’s and 1890’s. In the past it was common for these books to be taken apart and the strong kozo paper cut up to make paper thread which would be used as weft threads on a hemp or cotton warp. I bought many of these thinking that I might try my hand at making shifu using antique paper, but each page is like a work of art and I don’t know if I can ever bring myself to use them. You can purchase late 19th century daifukucho through my shop at https://www.etsy.com/shop/luckyredbat?ref=hdr_shop_menu

I recently ordered some beautiful hand made kozo paper and tried making kami-ito, paper thread using the books on kami-ito and shifu I mentioned above. I cut the kozo paper into thin strips leaving both ends attached, then I left the paper strips under a damp towel overnight, in the morning I rolled the moist paper on concrete blocks, and then spun the thread using a Japanese spinning wheel.

Pine Tree Tsutsugaki Furoshiki

March 28, 2016Cotton, Textiles, UncategorizedAntique, Cotton, furoshiki, grey, Hand Spun, Hand Woven, Japanese, meiji, momen, pine, tree, tsutsugakiNathan S

This small two panel furoshiki was probably part of a set of three or four and has been decorated with a family crest indicating it may be part of a traditional wedding dowry. It dates to the late 19th century and is made of hand spun and hand woven cotton. The color is a worn grey which I think may have been obtained by using sumi ink as a dye. The small tsutsugaki pine tree design in the corner is wonderfully simple and sweet.

Antique Japanese Spinning Wheel

March 27, 2016Bast fibers, Cotton, Fiber, My Work, Textiles, Thread and YarnAntique, Hand Spun, Japanese, spinning, spinning wheelNathan S

I recently found this antique Japanese spinning wheel. I had to beg the owner to ship it to me in North Carolina. After tinkering with the spindle I love the way it spins.

Strip Woven Project using Hand Spun Cotton

August 23, 2015Cotton, Fiber, Garden, My Work, Textiles, Thread and YarnAfrican, Cotton, Hand Spun, Hand Woven, Home Grown, mali, momen, strip woven, thread, weavingNathan S

I have been inspired recently by African strip woven cotton fabrics, many of which are dyed with indigo. I used my own hand spun cotton to weave a strip 20′ long by 8″ wide. After the strip was woven It was dyed in old indigo to leave an inconsistent pattern on the fabric. The strip was cut into shorter sections and then sewn together with hand spun thread before being over dyed with a strong indigo dye to darken the fabric. The over dying left the fabric with a beautiful mottled color that matches well with the inconsistencies of the hand spun thread.